48 hours in Phoenicia

Phoenicia Arts & Antiques and Bettina’s. (Photos by Dominic Labate) “Small-town charm” in practice often means there’s not much going on except dusty bed-and-breakfasts, a greasy spoon, and a half-vacant main street with sleepy storefronts. With a population of less than 270 in the hamlet itself, Phoenicia and environment punches far above its weight when it comes to offering visitors an exciting experience that’s quintessentially Catskills – tourist-friendly but authentically rustic. There are more fun things to do in and around Phoenicia than a hamlet this small has any right to offer. Forty-eight hours is the perfect amount of time to take it all in. Day 1 2 p.m. • visit the Emerson Kaleidoscope Five minutes before you arrive in Phoenicia heading west on Route 28, take a pit stop at Emerson Resort & Spa, with its towering silo that houses a unique roadside attraction: the World’s Largest Kaleidoscope. Inside, a brief custom light-and-sound show transforms the interior into an immersive swirl of shifting colors, mirrored patterns, and booming music that feels somewhere between a psychedelic art installation and a gaudy, old-school Catskills spectacle. The Emerson also houses the Mount Tremper post office, which alas offers very limited hours for non-boxholders. Left, Small Town Big Heart sign by Christina Varga. 3 p.m. • check in at Phoenicia Lodge There are several attractive lodging options in and around the hamlet, but it’s hard to beat Phoenicia Lodge in bang for the buck. Already one of the most affordable and well-reviewed options, it’s currently running a deal where your third night is included for free with any purchase of a two-night package. (Since this is 48 hours in Phoencia, planning the third day is up to you.) The suites are cozy, newly renovated, and situated on a beautiful property replete with outdoor seating, a fire pit, patio, grills for guests and a communal “great room” with fireplace. Complimentary continental breakfast is another nice touch